Arrived Bikaner 4:15am and were descended on by Tuk Tuk drivers who wanted to take us - including some who were suggesting other places. We found one who was apparently a friend of guest house owner and who offered to take us for a reasonable price but drove the fastest we've ever driven in a tuk tuk. Anything over 10 mph feels pretty speedy when there are no sides and you have big bags and he was going at least 30mph.
We got to hostel with no warm welcome. It is a bit of a dump and there is no shower or even sink in the bathroom. Woke up about 11 and, after a little wander round the village, we discussed the camel safari for tomorrow and arranged a Tuk Tuk for the day.
We had a tour in fanciest Tuk Tuk ever. It was brand new and the driver had bought it himself. This is quite a rarity in a country where they are mostly hired and passed from one person to another during the course of the day. The day started ok with a look at the fort from the outside (we're forted out) and then a trip to Lalgarh Palace. We were expected to look at the museum there but as it was such a lovely day and an impressive building, we simply walked around the outside and enjoyed the peace. There were soldiers and staff everywhere but we saw very few other people and ony 2 other tourists. Enjoyed a calm 10 minutes sitting on a bench in the garden and just looking.
After this we went to a miniature painting studio, where the painters spend days and days (often weeks) working on tiny pieces of art, made from tiny little brush strokes. The man there made us very welcome and spent ages talking to us about the craft, his family involvement in it, how the natural colours were made and used and demonstrating the different materials they used for painting on. He showed us incredible pictures painted on paper, camel leather, carved camel bone, postcards and old property documents from the British rule. He also talked us through his current painting and painted a tiny little scene on Matt's fingernail! After showing us round the studio and answering all of our questions, he still did not put us under any pressure to buy anything. When we tried to tip him for the time he had spent with us, he absolutely refused, saying it was his 'pleasure'.
Because of the experience we had had with the wonderful painter, we then agreed to go "British Red Cross" textiles factory which, of course, was nothing of the sort, and seemed only to be called that because they had once donated a prize to the British Red Cross Gala Dinner in 2003. They did claim to give 75% profit to the people who made the item but the salesmen seemed much happier and wealthier than the old ladies we saw sewing detailed patterns onto fabric in the half-light so we weren't convinced.
Somehow, we then picked up a 'friend' of Tuk Tuk driver called Ali who, despite repeating often that he volunteered as a 'social worker' at a textiles factory, was a bit annoying and pushy, and it turned out he was just volunteering for extra credit on his economics course. He showed us the old haveli's (attractive buildings made for the breeze to pass through) and a spice market. The market was really interesting because there were no tourists there and was just full of people doing their own shopping. The only hassle we got was from children wanting mostly to say hello so we wandered around and bought some tasty dosas and samosas before heading back to where we said we'd meet. He wasn't there and neither was the tuk tuk driver so we looked further. When we came back a few minutes later, we were grumbled at and told to walked down the hill to a Jain temple.
The temple was amazing. There were people singing, playing instruments and praying when we got there so we went up into the roof area and looked at the idols in the decorative domes. When the music had died down we went into the temple itself. It was perhaps the most beautifully decorated place we had seen so far but we felt rude taking any pictures, especially when there were still a few peope praying. It was an incredible place to be and it felt very spiritual and powerful just being in there. The priest came to speak to us and we were chatting to him when Ali came in to ask if we'd finished. On the way out, a lady stood at the door handed us a crisp, fresh 10 rupee note each. This really confused us. We asked what it was for and she told us for coming at prayer time. We were so surprised that we didnt really know what to say or ask so we stumbled off a bit dumbfounded. We will give it to someone needy soon.
Back at the hostel, we fell asleep for a short while because there was little else to do. We had been told that the internet was off again and so we couldn't do any research or sort anything out. We came here for him to see Karni Mata Mandir and didn't go today because we were meant to go on the camel safari tomorrow. We did have second thoughts about the camel safari because of the expense and the fact that it will just be the two of us (it would be much more fun in a group) but we think we'll do it anyway because otherwise it would mean another night here if he wanted to see Karni Mata Mandir. Matt is more certain than me and I'm struggling to see the appeal of it all but we'll see what happens. The idea of staying here another night isn't much fun but neither is riding on a stinky camel all day in the boiling hot sun, getting a sore bum, making our clothes stink even worse than they already do, going to a temple full of rats and then sleeping outside in a freezing cold desert!
Off to try and have a shower using a bucket now and get a few hours sleep before morning.
We got to hostel with no warm welcome. It is a bit of a dump and there is no shower or even sink in the bathroom. Woke up about 11 and, after a little wander round the village, we discussed the camel safari for tomorrow and arranged a Tuk Tuk for the day.
We had a tour in fanciest Tuk Tuk ever. It was brand new and the driver had bought it himself. This is quite a rarity in a country where they are mostly hired and passed from one person to another during the course of the day. The day started ok with a look at the fort from the outside (we're forted out) and then a trip to Lalgarh Palace. We were expected to look at the museum there but as it was such a lovely day and an impressive building, we simply walked around the outside and enjoyed the peace. There were soldiers and staff everywhere but we saw very few other people and ony 2 other tourists. Enjoyed a calm 10 minutes sitting on a bench in the garden and just looking. |
| Matt's disgusting finger |
Because of the experience we had had with the wonderful painter, we then agreed to go "British Red Cross" textiles factory which, of course, was nothing of the sort, and seemed only to be called that because they had once donated a prize to the British Red Cross Gala Dinner in 2003. They did claim to give 75% profit to the people who made the item but the salesmen seemed much happier and wealthier than the old ladies we saw sewing detailed patterns onto fabric in the half-light so we weren't convinced.
Somehow, we then picked up a 'friend' of Tuk Tuk driver called Ali who, despite repeating often that he volunteered as a 'social worker' at a textiles factory, was a bit annoying and pushy, and it turned out he was just volunteering for extra credit on his economics course. He showed us the old haveli's (attractive buildings made for the breeze to pass through) and a spice market. The market was really interesting because there were no tourists there and was just full of people doing their own shopping. The only hassle we got was from children wanting mostly to say hello so we wandered around and bought some tasty dosas and samosas before heading back to where we said we'd meet. He wasn't there and neither was the tuk tuk driver so we looked further. When we came back a few minutes later, we were grumbled at and told to walked down the hill to a Jain temple.
The temple was amazing. There were people singing, playing instruments and praying when we got there so we went up into the roof area and looked at the idols in the decorative domes. When the music had died down we went into the temple itself. It was perhaps the most beautifully decorated place we had seen so far but we felt rude taking any pictures, especially when there were still a few peope praying. It was an incredible place to be and it felt very spiritual and powerful just being in there. The priest came to speak to us and we were chatting to him when Ali came in to ask if we'd finished. On the way out, a lady stood at the door handed us a crisp, fresh 10 rupee note each. This really confused us. We asked what it was for and she told us for coming at prayer time. We were so surprised that we didnt really know what to say or ask so we stumbled off a bit dumbfounded. We will give it to someone needy soon.
Back at the hostel, we fell asleep for a short while because there was little else to do. We had been told that the internet was off again and so we couldn't do any research or sort anything out. We came here for him to see Karni Mata Mandir and didn't go today because we were meant to go on the camel safari tomorrow. We did have second thoughts about the camel safari because of the expense and the fact that it will just be the two of us (it would be much more fun in a group) but we think we'll do it anyway because otherwise it would mean another night here if he wanted to see Karni Mata Mandir. Matt is more certain than me and I'm struggling to see the appeal of it all but we'll see what happens. The idea of staying here another night isn't much fun but neither is riding on a stinky camel all day in the boiling hot sun, getting a sore bum, making our clothes stink even worse than they already do, going to a temple full of rats and then sleeping outside in a freezing cold desert!
Off to try and have a shower using a bucket now and get a few hours sleep before morning.
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