Day 16 - 16th Feb - Mount Abu

What a welcome relief to be in Mount Abu. As we walked around it seemed so much more beautiful, peaceful and clean than anywhere we'd seen so far. We wandered around the lake admiring the view of the mountains beyond and came across a sign for Toad rock. We climbed the many steps to get to it and it was worth every bead of sweat. The rock itself looked more like a dinosaur to me and a turtle's head to Matt but we still very much enjoyed perching on it and admiring the scenery.

We spent quite a lot of time chatting to a pair of lovely kids, Narayane and Rajan, who attended an English language medium school. They were currently on their winter holiday for 3 months and so were helping out selling refreshments on the plateau near the rock.

We continued our walk around the lake. Mount Abu is a little like a British seaside resort with a big lake instead of the sea and no arcades or chippys. There weren't many white tourists there but seemed to be a lot of Indian ones, milling about, buying candy floss and pedalling boats. There were no tuks tuks at all. This cut down on noise and pollution quite dramatically but the alternatives of horseback or ancient old man pulling a 'Radio Flyer' type cart weren't exactly appealling so we were pleased that it was quite a small place.

We wandered around the lake and took a road a little further out of the main town, where we saw huge expanses of white fabric layed over the rocks to dry in the sun. We stopped to take a photo of this with the river in the foreground and toad rock in the background. Further on we came across 'Honeymoon Point', a collection of outcrops with stunning vistas across the plains. It was absolutely incredible to walk past lots of rocks and hills and suddenly come across a view of such an  immense and flat area. It was at this point that we realised we did not have the camera any more.

We checked the  various areas of Honeymoon Point and then rushed back to where we knew we'd last had it but it was not there. After another check at honeymoon point we had to concede that it was gone. It was such a mood killer. We'd been really happy and content and relaxed for the first time in a few weeks and it was all over so quickly.

We asked several people and handed out our number on the way back into town in the hope that someone would contact us if they knew anything. It was a long shot but better than doing nothing.  We tried going to the police station and reporting it but it was a struggle to make them understand and to even take my number so we didn't have a chance of reporting it properly.

Then we tried to search out camera shops where someone might take it to sell it and asked if they sold second-hand cameras. We were in a shop looking an new cameras when we met Harsh, who told where there was another camera shop. He then offered to help us ask around around in the local language and said that his brother could help us file a police report if we didn't have any luck. We had nothing to lose and so decided to trust him. On the way, he told us about his work as a guide taking trips in the mountains to look at wildlife in order to make money for a movement that educates tribal girls.

Harsh took us to his brother, Narayan (ND), who was a really interesting guy. He was an animator, an academic, a founder member of the movement and was writing a book about the caste system. He explained that it was best to have another look in the bushes just in case someone had hidden it to come back to later. Matt's torch collection came in handy again but the search was fruitless.

ND said he'd look again in daylight but that it was probably best going to meet is friend who could help with the police report, Dalpat. At Dalpat's we were brought chai by 'mummy' and spent the evening sat around the fire, chatting and listening. They told us more about the 'movement' to help 'tribal' girls and about their experiences guiding. Dalpat told stories of guiding for eminent people such as the UK High Commissioner to India, various Indian government officials and Tom Cruise. He showed us a file of appreciation letters that he'd received and regaled us with hilarious tales.

We discussed the pressure Narayan was under to get any government job, no matter what it was or how it compromised his many talents, to please his family. Watching ND and Dalpat debate was like watching a tennis match. After Narayan had gone, he told us his background, his marriage to a tribal woman despite being high cast himself and his aspirations and we listened open-mouthed and astounded as he told an epic tale you could probably place somewhere between The Kite Runner and Shantaram.

We could have stayed all night but since we were under curfew, we had to rush back to our guesthouse for 10.30 curfew. Since Mount Abu contains bears, panthers, crocodiles and leapords, we guessed it was for our own safety so that they knew to raise the alarm. Just as we arrived, there was a wedding procession right outside our hotel. Weddings go on for several days but this section seems to involve driving a loudspeaker through the streets on a jeep while people follow and dance. It was the second one we'd been caught in  (though neither of us can remember when the first one was) but they were particularly persistent this time and actually managed to drag Matt in. Whenever Matt escaped I was caught up and whenever I escaped, Matt was surrounded. At least I don't mind throwing myself about a bit and waving my arms but poor Matt looked very confused and unsure.

When we did break free and get to our room, the toilet smelled so bad we struggled to sleep and vowed to leave in the morning.